What struck me most about Singapore was how this sleepy, swampy mosquito infested island in a piracy ridden area evolved into what it is today - a thriving financial hub.
And the most exciting way of exploring the transition from the past into the present was by foot.
I came across walking tours conducted in Singapore for those interested in exploring its history. And one tour that fit my schedule was the Kampong Glam tour conducted in and around the Malay areas and Arab Street.
The tour was supposed to start at exit B of Bugis MRT at 0915 hours, but after a rather uncomfortable night, I woke up only at 0715 hours and then began a mad rush. I barely got ready by 0800 hours. There was no time for breakfast - I took a few sips of Lipton green tea that I brought with me from home with a piece of cake that Mom had packed for me... And then began a mad scramble to get to Bugis....
And to my surprise I was in Bugis at 0855 after a 15 minute hotel shuttle, 10 minute wait at the Novena MRT, a 20 minute train ride and a 5-10 walk to the meeting point.....
At Bugis, our guide, Geraldine was waiting for us and in some time, a pretty large group of nearly 15 gathered - most were Australians, there was a Spanish couple and, to my surprise, a Singaporean university student, who joined us because she wanted to explore the hidden side of her nation.
After a brief introduction, we set out on our 3-hour tour. We were warned - there was a lot of walking involved and were advised to carry water...
Geraldine walked us through Kampong Glam. This was once an area of Kampongs - traditional Malay villages with wood houses on stilts. And Glam refers to a type of eucalyptus wood that was used in boat-making at the time. Geraldine mentionaed that this area was once the waterfront before the British reclaimed land from the sea. And the people who used to inhabit this area were gypsies of sorts, or sea-gypsies...
The colonial administration, seeing a fire hazard in the wooden Kampongs, forced the locals to redevelop and construct concrete houses, with a 5 feet pavement in front and a roof covering the pavement. The locals saw an excellent commercial opportunity in this - they constructed two floors. The ground floor was invariably used as a shop, with the covered pavement protecting the buyers from rain, while the top floor became their dwellings.
Alongside the street, Geraldine paused to show us Parkview Square, an imposing office building constructed in art-deco style. Statues of famous figures flank the building's plaza - these include Sir Winston Churchill, Sun Yat-sen, Abraham Lincoln, Plato, Sir Isaac Newton, Frederic Chopin, Salvador Dali and Dante.
The building is home to banks, companies and the UAE Embassy. Geraldine claimed the building was an opulent structure with gold plated figures and a three-storey high wine cellar inside, with the most expensive and rare wines placed on top. In jest, Geraldine suggested that we stop by at the cellar after our walk was over, and have a drink, if we could afford it!
Ahem well, I am looking at a budget, no-frills, strictly no-shopping trip, so a visit here was a no-no for me....
Behind Parkview Square is a modern twin-tower complex, The Gateway, designed by the legendary I.M. Pei. Geraldine told why most Singaporeans were not too pleased with it - with a trapezoidal cross-section and sharp corners, the building didn't follow the basics of Feng Shui. But then, as with Indian vastu, they did find a way out - a way to channelise the energies in the building, making it kosher for Feng Shui believers.
The big plot of land in front of The Gateway has been lying vacant for years because it was rumoured that no local developers wanted to develop it despite its prized prime location, simply because of the bad effect the the bad Feng Shui of The Gateway. The vacant site now belongs to the Malaysian Government since 2011, and jury is out whether the plot will be developed or not.
It is also said that Parkview Square was designed to absorb the negative Feng Shui of The Gateway - it was designed with protective gargoyles.
When I heard this trivia, Singaporeans did seem a bit too superstitious. But you got to give the ethnic Chinese the credit they deserve. I tell you, despite the modernity of this island, the ethnic Chinese here are still grounded to their roots (that lie in mainland China) and their ancient heritage, which in a sense is very, very appreciable.
We moved into narrow lanes of Arab Street, which were quite silent at that hour, but by evening, there is quite a scene here - the streets become lively with eating joints doing business and office-goers congregating at lounges here for a sheesha and a drink...
As land around Kampong Glam was reclaimed from the sea, the British settled immigrants and traders from the Middle East here. And streets in this area were named after places far away - Baghdad Street, Bussorah Street, Kandahar Street and Sultan Gate. Then we moved into the Muscat Street - a pedestrian street with eateries, boutiques and antique shops on either side. Geraldine heralded us into a tiny shop that sells stuff for Muslims headed for the Haj - we were shown prayer mats, skull caps and compasses that point in the direction of the Mecca. Then Geraldine popped a perplexing question - she asked us what the ethnicity of the owner was. (At the far end of the shop, there was section, a mandir, devoted to Hindu deities - Goddess Lakshmi, Lord Ganesh and others!)
There was silence, my fellow walkers were pondering over what to say next...
I waited for a few seconds, and then responded saying the owner was a Hindu. Taking a clue from his name, Ghariwalla, that was mentioned on the board outside, I added that he was a Gujarati, and that commerce runs in the blood of Gujaratis, much like the Jews. So, for Mr. Ghariwalla, stocking up stuff for devout Muslims would not matter at all, as for Gujaratis, commerce and money ranks much above dogmatism of religion. Geraldine concluded saying Arab Street and the Bugis area was a kind of microcosm - of what Singapore was and has become, where people irrespective of race or religion thrive in harmony....
I waited for a few seconds, and then responded saying the owner was a Hindu. Taking a clue from his name, Ghariwalla, that was mentioned on the board outside, I added that he was a Gujarati, and that commerce runs in the blood of Gujaratis, much like the Jews. So, for Mr. Ghariwalla, stocking up stuff for devout Muslims would not matter at all, as for Gujaratis, commerce and money ranks much above dogmatism of religion. Geraldine concluded saying Arab Street and the Bugis area was a kind of microcosm - of what Singapore was and has become, where people irrespective of race or religion thrive in harmony....
After this we were heralded into another shop, this one owned and run by two elderly Malay ladies, stocking stuff that was traditionally Malay. Geraldine showed us a box of betelnuts.... She explained the significance of how betelnuts were once used as money and were used to display friendship, peace and affection. Betelnuts have a major significance in Malay culture and offered as gifts at the time of betrothal.
Then she showed us how the Malay dressed - two volunteers from our group were dressed in traditional Malay finery. Geraldine demonstrated how the Malay used their sarongs as shopping bags, as cots for kids and much much more....
And that was an interesting insight into the Malay way of life... But I am sure there's more coming up in this tour....
And that was an interesting insight into the Malay way of life... But I am sure there's more coming up in this tour....
No comments:
Post a Comment