Friday, July 31, 2015

The Rock Churches Of Göreme...

Anatolia had been one of the first homes of Christianity and Cappadocia was one of their first homes. We set out to see a sampling of the early monasteries of Cappadocia, right here in Göreme, after having a rather fulfilling meal at Sedef, a meal fulfilling for all our senses...



Our destination was the Göreme Open-Air Museum which houses a vast monastic complex having a score of rock cut monasteries and churches placed side-by-side...



Early Christians started moving out of Israel soon after the crucifixion of Christ. The moved into Asia Minor (Anatolia), Caucasus and Europe. However, the early believers faced persecution from the Roman Empire and had to take refuge wherever they found it.


The remoteness and rugged landscape of Cappadocia provided the new believers with an ideal hideaway. They developed self sustaining communities - rock cut monasteries were established, cave churches and homes were carved out of the natural features. Herds were tended to and agriculture came into being in this semi-arid area.


By the 3rd and 4th century AD, Saint Basil, a local priest organised the local monasteries and an orthodox order was established. Meanwhile, the Byzantine regime under Emperor Constantine adopted Christianity and these conducive events helped Cappadocia emerge as a region of significance of Christians of Anatolia.
These folks were quite accepting and tolerant. They allowed the Seljuks, a tribe from regions in Kazakhstan to settle around these parts. The Seljuks were early converts to Islam and they thrived side by side with the Christians in Cappadocia.
The onslaught of the Ottomans into Anatolia started in 1100s and was actively aided by the Seljuks. Things came to a final close in 1453 with the fall of Constantinople. And then began another relative isolation of the Christians here in Cappadocia until 1924 when the population exchange happened between Greece and Turkey.
The Göreme Open-Air Museum is home to the monasteries and churches that the early Christians established here.


Saint Basil's church...
Sadly photography isn't permitted indoors...




These rock cut caves are living proof of the ingenuity of the human mind...





Elmali (Apple) Church...

The complex is home to several churches and monasteries - Saint Barbara's Chapel, Apple (Elmali) Church, Snake (Yilanli) Church, Dark Church (Karanlik Kilise), Carikli (Sandals) Church and the Buckle (Tokali) Church...






This was where horses or cattle were tied...


A grain grinding mill...


The kitchen of the monastery...



Benches for the monks to sit and have their meals...



Chapel of Saint Barbara...


A tomb of one of the eminent locals - there was a local tradition whereby rich local Christians would donate the parish with wealth in return for a right to be buried here...


Snake (Yilanli) Church...


While there were a few Europeans, most tourists here were Pakistanis...




Pantocrator Church...



Another series of tombs...


A Christian rock painting...





A tribute to a local photographer and tourist guide who tragically passed away an year back...


The living section of the monastery...



The kitchen of the monastery...






The clay ovens or tandirs as the Turks call them, much like the Indian tandoors. The roof is blackened with soot and smoke from the ovens...


The communal eating chambers...






Heading to the Dark Church...




A section of the cave wall collapsed exposing the frescoes...





The valley below...




Saint Catherine's Church...


It's quite cool inside...



Sandal Church...








It is amazing how the early settlers made this region their home despite its inhospitability...





And we say goodbye to Göreme...


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