After peeking into the despair of Kijong-dong village on the North Korean side of the DMZ, we headed to the Third Tunnel, the scene of animosity that the north has for the south. We pass through a thickly wooded forest. We were told that this area is heavily mined - landmines left behind by the Northern side after their retreat in 1953. Civilians are not permitted to enter these jungles, not only because this a high security area, but also because one never knows what lies beneath the ground.
Since its demarcation in 1953, the DMZ has been witness to numerous incidents and incursions by the North Koreans, although they never acknowledge direct responsibility for any of these incidents. Now that would be a lot like the "mosquito bites" India gets from Pakistan, but Pakistan blames "non state actors".
One of the ways the North Koreans tried to intrude in was through tunnels dug under the DMZ right into South Korean territory. Till now, four such tunnels crossing the DMZ, that had been dug by North Korea, have been discovered.
When confronted with the evidence, North Korea claimed that the tunnels were for coal mining. That of course is a lie as no coal has ever, ever been found in these tunnels. These tunnel walls had been painted black to give the appearance of coal.
It is believed that these tunnels were to be used as a military invasion route. Each shaft was large enough to permit the passage of nearly 2000 soldiers in one hour, though the tunnels are not wide enough for vehicles.
Today, we were visiting one such tunnel, the Third Infiltration Tunnel.
This incomplete tunnel was discovered in October 1978, after the South Korean side detected an underground explosion, apparently caused by the North Koreans, who had progressed 435 metres into South Korean territory beyond the DMZ. It took four months to locate the tunnel precisely and dig an intercept tunnel.
As we reached the site of the third tunnel, we were led into a theatre for an orientation on the history of the Korean conflict and more particularly of the four tunnels. We were repeatedly told that photography isn't permitted inside the tunnel!
An audio-visual presentation on the Korean conflict...
Innocent Koreans were adversely impacted by the war...
Demarcation of the DMZ...
The Communist forces from North Korea, assisted by China and the Soviet Union, captured most of South Korea, forcing the a retreat of the South Korean forces to Busan...
During the war, Seoul changed hands four times...
It was the Battle of Incheon that turned the tide in favour of the United Nations Command...
Flowers of the DMZ...
The third tunnel is incomplete. It is 1,635 metres long, 1.95 metres high and 2.1 metres wide. It runs through bedrock at a depth of about 80 metres below ground level. The tunnel is described as a "tunnel of aggression" by the South Koreans, who considered it an overt act of aggression from the North.
The tunnel was quite cold and damp. We could imagine the plight of the North Korean workers who would have slaved to make a tunnel that stands for nothing productive. We keep hearing of the tortures inflicted by the North Korean regime on their people, stories of starvation and forced labour. The North Koreans expect aid from the world but put their scarce resources to such a waste. If you thought such wasteful expenses are over, hold your breath! They are developing missiles and nuclear weapons, and exporting this technology to rogue states. This is really appalling!
A spot for photographs...
A photo here is a must!
This sculpture signifies reunification...
As sun sets over a divided land, we return back with a number of questions. What drives the irrationality of the North Korean regime? What will it be like if reunification happens, will Korea remain an industrial powerhouse like the way South Korea is? We decide we cannot crystal-gaze, as we head back to Seoul!
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